Log of “Sadie”
Log of “Sadie” (Turkey)
by Gordon Reid
Friday 23 May
Booked into the UNLU hotel in central Gocek. This hotel has recently been renovated and is very comfortable with full range of facilities. We found the staff friendly and the restaurant excellent value. The hotel is about 100 metres from the ferry wharf and Skopea Marina.
Saturday 24 May
Morning spent shopping and locating a friendly supermarket that would deliver our boat supplies to the Sunsail Base. Although we were scheduled to board the boat at 1600 we were asked to remain at the office while a group filmed the boat’s interior. As this process appeared to be dragging on we decided to board and let the film people move around us. In the end the film group did not turn up.
As it was getting late and we had our dinner booked for 1930 it was agreed with the base that our briefing would take place on Sunday morning at 0930.Having the briefing on Sunday allowed us to unpack in comfort as well as stack the fridges.
Dinner was at the CAN Restaurant at the end of the ferry wharf in Gocek and we had our usual large salt crust baked grouper. Once again the meal was superb and we booked for our return on Friday June 20th.
Sunday 25 May
The briefing was relatively smooth due our having chartered a similar 440 Lagoon in Croatia in 2007. However this boat had some new toys such as a generator set and air conditioning. The briefing crew were not fully up to scratch on the boat details but Graeme and I decided we would do a full inspection as soon we could leave the base. Over the next two days we checked everything from bow to stern but missed the mainsail headboard halyard block which I was assured was a fixed block and not swivelling (more about this later)
On departing Gocek we sailed in the Fetiyhe Limani for a couple hours in SW to SE force 4 winds. The boat handled very well under a reefed mainsail and full jib. However the dinghy lifting tackle parted and we nearly lost the dinghy. We discovered that the No 2 reef was improperly rigged with the luff in the correct position but the leech in No 3 position. We fixed both problems alongside at Wall Bay. A good start to our four weeks ??
We moored alongside Wall Bay wharf and although we ate on board we booked our lamb casserole dinner for Tuesday 27 May.
Monday 26 May
Made an early start for Ekincik and were sailing for 2.5 hours in W force 4 winds. Boat sails very well again under reefed mainsail. Maximum sailing speed 10 knots.
The marina at MY Marina has now been completed and it is excellent. It looks as if the marina is capable of handling up to 100 boats.
Dinner at MY Marina was not as good as previously experienced and we did have difficulty in translation as the full menu is not printed, but explained verbally by the waiter.
Tuesday 27 May
The visit to Caunos was worthwhile and the weather was perfect. We climbed part way up to the fort to get a better view of the extensive reed beds. A great deal of work is being carried out restoring the ruins of the ancient city and the visit was made more enjoyable by the large amount of signage in English. The Tombs at Dalyan are as impressive as always and it was a good morning’s trip.
Sailed Ekincik and headed for Wall Bay in W force 4/5 winds, Set jib but with a couple of crew not looking too well decided not to set main and get into shelter as soon as possible. Found forward starboard toilet sludge tank full and outlet blocked. Advised Gocek Base to expect us at 0930 on Wednesday.
Berthed Wall Bay and had a disappointing meal after all our expectations. Crew reckoned that the lamb was goat and a bit tasteless. There were very few boats at Wall Bay on both our visits but very many flies.
Wednesday 28 May
Arrived Gocek at 0912 and set the shore crew the task of rectifying the sludge tank, dinghy lifting tackles, and replacing air conditioning shore power cable. The boat has two shore power cables, one for general boat power and the other for the A/C unit. This means that the generator set does not have to be used alongside where shore power is available. At no time were we charged for the extra cable but I assume that will change when more boats turn up with A/C.
Sailed from Gocek at 1330 with intention of staying at Gemiler Adasi for the night and as the wind was SE force 4 so we motored for the afternoon. However on inspecting the area we decided that the noise of all the powered toys, speedboats and jet skis, the moorings at Karacaoren were the best bet. We picked up a buoy at the restaurant moorings and as long as we had a few beers in the bar the owner was quite happy to let us stay and eat on board.
The weather so far has been ideal with warm temperatures during the day and cool nights with minimum mosquitos. The water temperature varies between 22 and 24 degrees.
Thursday 29 May
Beautiful calm morning for the passage to Kalkan. Spent the afternoon shopping and finding a place for dinner. Decided on Illyra where the feature was the Testes (NOT testicles). (Clay pot filled with meat or chicken and vegetables that after cooking is partially emptied then tipped upside down and broken in two by tapping the middle of the pot) This dish originated in the Cappodocia region. The service was excellent and we really enjoyed our meal. Usual noisy place round the harbour until about 0300.
Friday 30 May
Toured ancient Letoon, Xanthos and Patara during the morning but made a mistake in not taking a registered guide. Our guide was an English woman who had lived in Kalkan for some years – she was hopeless and was quite happy to send us off on our own without any history or other information on the area. Lost my magic blue eye somewhere on route. The weather is warming up during the day but still very pleasant at night. Have not used the a/c yet.
On departure from Kalkan headed for our favourite anchorage in Bayindir Limani a couple of miles due south of Kas. This is a very quiet bay before the summer holidays start and is excellent swimming. Previously we have seen turtles alongside the boat during the evening. Had a good meal on board. Decided that the house on the point would suit us very well for a holiday home – have never seen anybody in residence.
Saturday 31 May
Motored into Kas for water and laundry and met near disaster.
The harbour was almost full and after dropping the anchor I tried to manoeuvre the boat into a possible berth. The starboard engine refused to go astern and remained in ahead gear with the throttle still operating. After a few “doughnuts” sliding close to mooring chains and bowsprits I shut down the starboard engine, upped anchor which was foul of another anchor cable, crawled out of the harbour to an anchorage just to the east of the breakwater and called Sunsail Gocek Base for help. On reflection we were fortunate that our anchor had fouled the other chain as this restricted the diameter of our doughnuts.
Fortunately a Sunsail Flotilla arrived as I anchored outside the harbour and their engineer was asked by Sunsail Base to determine what was the problem with the control. In the meantime an engineer was dispatched by road from Gocek. The flotilla engineer found that the control cable crimping had given way and a new cable was required. This duly arrived with the Gocek engineer and the two of them took about an hour to fit a new cable. In the meantime a deflated crew set off in the dinghy to go ashore, trying very hard not to look like the same people who had made such a mess of the first effort in the yacht.
We bought a new magic eye immediately and I was never seen without it again during the charter. I am not superstitious!!!??
Moved back to Bayindir Limani for the night and another meal on board. Plus a few scotches to calm the nerves. Mind you one crew who will remain nameless was seen during the Kas drama to grab a glass and bottle of cognac and disappear to a cabin until all was quiet at the anchorage.
Sunday 1 June
Left Bayindir Limani for Kekova via a quick look into Kastellorizon.
Very quiet day so we motored. Moored at Ibrahim’s wharf at Ocagiz for dinner. In the afternoon we visited two of Ibrahim’s guletts. The new 32metre gulette was beautiful inside and out, polished timber and beautifully finished. We could see why people enjoyed cruising on such a magnificent vessel. In discussions with Ibrahim we found that the cost of building and fitting out these vessels has doubled in three years. That put an end to our dream of buying one for the use of ourselves and friends.
Monday 2 June
After visiting the castle at Kale Koy and the sunken city we left Ibrahim’s and headed out to sea to empty sludge tanks and have a few hours sailing. In the late afternoon we moored alongside Hasan’s Roma Restaurant at Kale Koy right under the castle. The dinner served this night was excellent. The owner’s wife offered us a whole grouper with half to be made into soup and half grilled for main course. We were delighted at the wonderful food and friendly service. We had our table set on a cabana built out over the water about 20metres from the root of the wharf. We could make as much noise as we wanted and not disturb other diners.
Tuesday 3 June
Decided that we needed a good swim and investigated Karaloz inlet on the north east point of Kekova Island. It is a beautiful spot and the swimming was great. We must make an overnight stop on the return journey.
Motored to Finike for the night. This was not a very pleasant port of call and the only thing to recommend it was the easy access to Demre and the church of Saint Nicholas. The town was very quiet as the holidays have not yet begun. Most of the tour groups that we have come across up to now have been East European or Russian. The women dress in next to nothing and really look daggy.
Dinner this night was in a restaurant recommended by the Marina Manager. Three star with only one other table occupied and very mediocre food.
Wednesday 4 June
Sailed from Finike after crew completed a trip to Demre by taxi to visit the amphitheatre and tombs followed by a visit to the Church of St Nicholas (Patron Saint of Seafarers and original Santa Claus).
ESE winds force 5 with a very choppy sea from ahead until we turned north at Taslik Burnu heading for Cavus Limani.
The large bay offered good anchorages and we anchored in the south east corner close to the restaurant area ashore. As soon as we anchored we had a visit from an English couple who sail these waters every year. We were advised that from now until Antalya not to leave the boat unattended while at anchor as there have been cases of pilfering and damage to boats while all crew were ashore for dinner. This is first time since 1994 that we heard of this type of problem in Turkey. Possibly the culprits are the itinerants coming down to the coast for work during the holiday period.
We solved the problem by eating take away on board. This consisted of calamari, chips and bread from a restaurant ashore collected by using the dinghy.
Thursday 5 June
At 1000 sailed for Olympus and after anchoring close to the beach six crew headed for the ancient ruins. From all reports the site is well worth visiting with many excellent venues well preserved and a lot of restoration being carried out.
After lunch and swim we headed south to Cinevic Limani and anchored with a line ashore in a spectacular bay unfortunately despoiled by previous yachties splashing graffiti everywhere. Then horror of horrors – we ran out of tonic water! There was a big Turkish gulette moored in the same bay so I donned flippers and snorkel and swam across to beg for a bottle. No problem – have this one on us!
Friday 6 June
Early start on a flat calm day for Antalya and a couple of days lay-over to change crew. The coast line is dotted with new monster resorts from just south of Kemer all the way north to Antalya. According to the locals these are mainly to cater for the Russian and East European invasion during the summer months.
We entered the Celebi (ex Setur) Marina with some trepidation after listening to comments during the previous days about the lack of facilities and high cost of fees.
We found the facilities being in a state of confusion due to major renovations taking place. The new owners have completed the ablutions block and almost completed the new offices and stores. “A” marina arm has been renewed with progressive renewal of the other three arms by the end of June. A lot of money is being spent to make this a first class facility with a major supermarket, restaurant, swimming pool and repair base.
After refuelling and watering the boat we locked up and headed for the Sheraton Hotel for two nights R&R. The first rain of our holiday started at 1700 with a thunderstorm. We looked out towards the boat and apologised for leaving her on her own in the storm. Fortunately the rain only lasted an hour or two then we were back to our fine cool weather.
Saturday 7 June
All twelve of the crew, four departing and four joining met for breakfast and then we headed for Perge and Aspendos. We had our own guide and she was fantastic and contrary to our guide at Kalkan she really knew her subject.
After dinner back at the Sheraton we farewelled our departing crew and turned in early. This was a good idea to break up the charter into two halves and have a very comfortable rest for two days.
Sunday 8 June
Returned to the boat after a large shopping at the Migros shopping mall. We paid much less for the shopping than anywhere else on the trip. Managed to find proper pork bacon and vacuum packed fillets of beef and beautiful fresh legs of lamb.
After getting the new crew settled on board we decided to leave the wharf and anchor in the harbour for lunch. During the departure procedure one crew who was assisting to keep the boat off the wharf wall decided to stay on the wharf instead of jumping on board when we were clear. Interesting!!!!
With SE force 4 winds we decided to motor to Cinevic Limani. The sea was moderate and it allowed the new crew to get their sea legs. Anchored with a line ashore in the same spot as on the way north. Everybody had a great swim and dinner on board.
Monday 9 June
Motored in flat calm conditions to Olympus and spent the morning exploring the ruins. When I arrived back on board a local day trip a gulette had anchored virtually on top of our anchor. The skipper shouted at us for anchoring in a private anchorage. We told him “No way” or some similar words. This area becomes crowded with day trip boats and arriving early guarantees a good anchorage close to the beach. We noted that the gulette’s dinghy motor was minus its propellor and the crew were having to row their passengers ashore. Probably the reason the skipper was testy.
Departed Olympus for Kekova with freshening head winds. We hoped the wind would ease by the time we turned the corner at Taslik Burnu but we were out of luck and hit WSW force 5 building to force 7 during the afternoon. The seas were running at 2 metres so we had a lumpy passage.
Managed to get a call into Hasan at the Roma Restaurant and booked our fish meal and the cabana for tonight. On arrival off Kale Coy the wind was still force 5/6 and the mooring looked difficult. The islands off the berth gave just enough lee to allow us to berth safely.
Mrs Hasan did us proud again with aubergine fritters, her splendid fish soup followed by fried fish and chips, baked onions and fresh fruit.
Tuesday 10 June
While two crew took a taxi ride for the six hour round trip back to Antalya to reclaim some lost possessions left in the hotel, I took the boat round to Woodhouse Bay for a morning swim before berthing at Ibrahim’s at Ocagiz.
Soon after we berthed a group of three yachts approached the wharf to berth. It was obvious to all boats in the vicinity that the boats were coming into Ibrahim’s, however a boat with a bunch of loud Germans decided they would force the other boats out of the way and grab the best berth. It was one of the worst examples of seamanship that I have ever seen. Fortunately there was no collision.
Wednesday 11 June
Toured Demre and the Church of St. Nicholas with the new crew. Both sites are well worth visiting and as we were early, 0900, there were very few people around and although it was hot we had a comfortable trip.
Departed Ibrahim’s for probably our last time and headed out to sea for a few hours sailing. With a light SE wind we put up the full mainsail and enjoyed a leisurely couple of hours. On attempting to lower the mainsail we were met with the same problem we experienced in Croatia on the Lagoon 440, a jammed mainsail halyard. Contrary to the information during our briefing the mainsail headboard block was a swivelling block and when the halyard was used to tension the mainsail luff the block swivelled and jammed the twists against the masthead fittings. The tension on the mainsail downhaul would not release the jam and it was not until the two reef lines were loaded onto separate winches that the force on the three lines eased the jam and allowed the sail to be lowered.
This is dangerous as there is no means to drop the mainsail in an emergency, for example man overboard. In addition to a report to Sunsail Base, Gocek a letter will be sent to Sunsail Head Office requesting that they advise all base managers to ensure that on all boats having a two part purchase on the mainsail halyard that the mainsail head block is to be fixed and not swivelling. The procedure to drop the sail took half an hour and in the meantime we contacted Ibrahim to request assistance as we had no means of going up the mast if that was required to free the halyard. Ibrahim arrived alongside just as the sail became free. It is good to know that there are friends to help in times of stress.
Anchored with a line ashore at Karaloz. Perfect night with the occasional sound of goat bells up on the hillsides.
Thursday 12 June
Had a leisurely breakfast and swim before heading out to sea to find some sailing wind. In the meantime I had lashed the head block to ensure that it could not swivel and we were very comfortable tensioning the mainsail to enjoy a nice shaped sail for better sailing in light conditions.
We enjoyed sailing in SW force 3 winds before lowering sails and heading into the harbour entrance at Kastellerizon for a quick photo opportunity the on to Bayindir Limani. Our usual anchoring spot was clear for us and in no time we were secure and over the side.
Friday 13 June
Headed for Kas to be there mid morning when the day trip boats had left. This is the best time to berth in Kas provided you do not wish to stay overnight as there were plenty berths available. Late in the afternoon the day trippers return and you are liable to be chased out of the berth. After topping up with water it was all hands ashore for shopping and lunch. We had lunch at the Kas Restaurant where we were met by old friends. I have known the Owner and Maitre’d since our first visit in 1994. After lunch we headed back to Bayindir for the night. We are all too old to put up with the nightly noise in Kas.
Saturday 14 June
Headed back to Kas for certain adjustments to be made to purchases from yesterday. Anchored just outside the harbour entrance and used the dinghy to go ashore.
Motored to Kalkan and moored stern to wharf. We are now using the a/c in the afternoons to cool the boat when alongside or when there is cooking for a meal on board. Still able to use two shore connections without additional payment.
Crew decided it was too hot visit Xanthos and Letoon so we spent the afternoon swimming at the Beach Club at the root of the breakwater.
Sunday 15 June
After an excellent breakfast at the Beach Club we sailed at midday from Kalkan and headed for Karacoren. Wind was SW force 4 with a nasty choppy sea so we decided to motor to arrive as soon as possible.
Picked up a mooring at Karacorem and headed for the restaurant bar for a few beers. There were thirty boats crowded into the area by nightfall.
Monday 16 June
After yesterday’s experience with the weather it was decided to leave at 0600 to motor to Ekincik in calm weather. This was not to be because as soon as we rounded the corner out from Kalkan the wind was blowing W force 4 with the sloppy seas.
We made the trip in four hours and decided to have a swim and lunch stop in the bay two south of Karacay point on the west side of Ekincik.
Berthed at My Marina and arranged for Caunos Tours to pick up crew in the morning. (Caunos Tours are now on Channel 11 not Channel 6)
It was our original intention to take “Sadie” round to the anchorage off Delikada Island to pick up a tour boat but with the indications that the SW winds would continue we bailed out of that idea.
When we booked the evening meal at My Marina we had a quiet word to the manager about the quality of the food on our previous visit three weeks earlier. Explained that we had been coming to the restaurant since 1994 and had always had great food. Don’t know if it was the “talk” or the fact that the staff have settled in for the tourist season, but the food was up to the usual high standard.
Tuesday 17 June
Left Ekincik for Fethiye Limani at 1248 and had a great sail in WSW Force 4/5 winds. Boat comfortably doing 8.5 knots under sail.
Berthed at the inside of the wharf at Kapi Creek. This was not easy as the depth of water on the turn into the wharf was only 0.2 metres under the keel. After inspecting the shore facilities, and checking the menu (prices were double what we had been paying) we decided that we would eat on board. This did not go down well with the restaurant staff and we offered to pay for the mooring, but this was refused.. It appears that this place caters for the flotilla groups and they get a cheap fixed price menu and the rest of us have to make up the profit. Anyway the problem was solved when a large power boat moored astern of us and prevented us from sailing to an outside mooring.
Wednesday 18 June
Before sailing to Fethiye we motored into Sarsala Iskelesi to check on the area for an overnight stop on Thursday. Dropped anchor off a small beach on the north side of the bay for a swim and breakfast.
Weighed anchor at 1236 and headed out into Fethiye Limani where the wind was blowing SE force 3 picking up during the afternoon to SW force 4. The boat sailed beautifully and as we headed into Fethiye three pairs of very large dolphins decided to play with us for a good twenty minutes. Great excitement and many minutes of still and video photography. These were among the largest dolphins I have seen in 57 years at sea.
Arrived at the berth at the Sunsail Fethiye Base to find a work in progress. A new facility is being built ready for this season but it was far from finished when we berthed. Power was available from a “snakes honeymoon” of cables with four and three point power boards spread everywhere. It was first up best dressed. We settled for one shore power connection and ran the a/c on the on board generator. Advised the boat crew next door that the noise would be turned off after supper.
This will be a very good facility when completed with an excellent swimming pool on site.
The meal in the restaurant was good but the staff need a lot more training to be able to cope with the up coming season.
Thursday 19 June
Visited the huge tombs above Fethiye and spent the morning strolling through the shops. As it was hot some of us headed back to the boat and swimming.
Tried to leave the berth at 1300 but picked up the end of our port stern line in the prop. Fortunately it was our line and not the light line for the laid mooring. Young guy from the base dived down and cleared the prop and we headed out again for an afternoon of sailing before heading to Sarsala. Wind was fresher than yesterday and had to put No1 reef in Mainsail.
The berth at Sarsala was the usual rickety wharf seen around this area and how they stand up I do not know. Our mooring rings were attached to the wooden deck by a couple of six inch nails that half pulled out. And this is the start of the season!.
The food and service were good and in discussion with the flotilla leader I asked him about Kapi Creek and he was adamant that that would be the last place he would take his group. He also advised against Wall Bay which had only two boats alongside.
In the evening after dinner ashore we watched the European Cup match between Portugal and Germany. As the restaurant was full of Germans and our crew were cheering for Portugal we decided at half time to head home before we created an International incident.
Friday 20 June
Clean up and packing day. We decided to head for the Gocek fuelling barge early before the crowds arrived. The barge is under repair and a temporary berth has been established to the west of Sunsail’s marina and we got there just in time. The queue of flotilla boats started to arrive as soon as we finished and the waiting time grew all day.
We moored at Sunsail Base at 11.30 and finished washing down and topping up the tanks with water. The de-briefing went well and all hands headed for the Can Restaurant and our usual fish. The weather has hotted up the last two /three days and we were grateful for the a/c to finish our packing.
Saturday 21 June
Half the crew left the boat at 0330 to fly to Istanbul while the remainder left at 0800.
Mileage Gocek to Antalya 280.70 nm
Mileage Antalya to Gocek 727.00 nm
Total mileage sailed 552.70 nm